Thursday, January 10, 2019

Post #23 & 24 Cabinet, closet, & bathroom doors

Post #23 ~ December 18th - We removed the old facing from the two doors and I sanded them down nice and smooth. I also added some interior supports to the top and down the middle for some structural support.  Today (Wednesday Dec 19th) I glued and stapled (with 3/4" x 15/16" staples) the extra supports into the closet door and put the new facing on.  As you can see I used almost every clamp we have, plus weighted it down where the extra supports were added with bricks.

Post# 24 ~ After being forced to take two weeks or so off from the project because of a very bad cold over Christmas, I'm back at it.

I did the same thing to the bathroom door that I did to the closet door, and when done with both doors, flush cut the edges, then rounded the edges over with a 1/8" roundover bit.  I then put on two more coats of Amber shellac, and two coats of clear.

I used Larry's method of shellacing from to lay down the first layers of shellac on the 4' X 8' sheets of Birch plywood.

Then after I got everything cut out and applied to the cabinet, bathroom & closet doors, and drawers I decided to do some refined finishing techniques because of a bit of streakiness I didn't like.

After watching some youtube videos on french polishing I decided to try the new method on these items.  I really like the results as I got a smoother more mirror like finish.  Here is a link to one of the videos I watched.

Method I used: I took an old wool sock (or half a sock) and placed it in the middle of a double layered cotton cloth (I used part of a flour sack towel), & tied it off to make a pad. After sanding with 240 grit sandpaper & removing any dust, I then dipped the pad into a small amount of shellac, dripped a few drops of denatured alcohol on top, plus a drop of mineral oil for lubrication.  I rubbed the pad over the door face following the grain of the wood until it was coated with the shellac. To keep the pads from drying out, I kept them in a jar with an airtight lid.  I let the shellac dry for an hour, then rubbed 0000 steel wool over it, wiped any dust off it, then applied another coat. If I needed more layers I repeated the process.

When I liked the way it looked I applied a coat of paste wax on it to help protect it, and buffed it to a shine.

I think they came out very nice.  I think am going to do this to the walls and cabinets too, because it just looks really nice.

I do have to redo one of the cabinet door fronts, because when I flush cut around the edges the birch paneling delaminated really bad.  Luckily I had a spare piece that would fit the door. So I've removed the old and have glued the new face on.  Hopefully this piece won't have the same issue.

Largest cabinet door. 

6 of 8 cabinet doors.

Bathroom door.

Closet door.

Two upper cabinets I had to recreate, because the previous owners removed them. 
French Polish supplies. Shellac, denatured alcohol, mineral oil, 0000 steel wool, and the application pads. 

Thursday, December 13, 2018

Post # 22 - Drawer & cabinet fronts +

This week I got the new fronts of the drawers glued on and today we routed the edges with a 1/8" round over bit.  I re sanded the edges nice and smooth before using the router(after I'd painted them Fresh Guacamole, I didn't like the way they looked), and put a coat of Amber Shellac over the edges and put another coat on the front. Looks wonderful!
I also got the gaucho bed frames cut and ready to install.  the top part that pulls out to make the benches into the beds out got slats put in, & painted on both sides (to cover old wood smell).  I also cut them into two sections so I can have one 40" X 80" wide bed across the back or two 39" X 73.5" beds down the sides. I've added 3" to each side so I don't have to cut the 24" wide foam down to 20".

The front cabinet / shelf unit is also built and ready to install - this is where the table will fold down in the middle of the seat/bed units & fit snugly into the space provided.  And I have a nice white pine board to install for the top, which may have 3 outlets (2 with USB ports) installed in it. I also have to sand and put a few coats of shellac on the board.
Tomorrow I start on the cabinet doors.  I was just going to cover the original paneling with new, but we decided it wouldn't look right because of the way they had been beveled. So my husband ripped the fronts off and now I just have to sand and glue new paneling around the edge frames (hollow core doors).  Will definitely save on glue. 

Pictures will follow.  

Wednesday, December 5, 2018

Post #21 - Cabinets, Drawers, & bed frames.

Since the last post I've slowly been painting the interior of the smaller cabinets, backs and edges of the doors, plus I've painted the interior of the three drawers that were still intact (because they were somewhat nasty).  I'm painting the bed toppers, and legs too.  I hope the color I chose grows on me, because I'm not too sure I love it.

I have found that waiting for paint and glue dry is boring.  Unless I get out to the workshop and put a coat of paint on before lunch, I have to wait until the next day to put the second coat on since it wants me to wait at least 4 hours between coats.  Glue is similar - have to wait to nail or screw until it has a chance to set up.  Tedious stuff...

I also realized I don't like stapling gimp (welting) across the upper edges of all the cabinets.  Larry says we need to do this to keep the squeaking down because of wood on wood contact, but it is boring to do too.  I did the upper kitchen cabinet, over the top edges of the side walls, and part of the closet.  I think I will have to buy more to finish the job. Probably another 200' - 300', because I still have to do the lower kitchen cabinet, upper bathroom cabinet, refrigerator cabinet, wall between the bathroom and kitchen (both sides), front shelf unit, two small upper cabinets, and around the potty box I'm going to build.

This past week I've also been working on the bed frames, and making the slats to extend the seating to make the beds wider.  When done they should be able to be pulled out to 39"- 40" - 24" seat with 15" backs.  I plan on splitting the backs at 40" so I can configure the bed frame to make one bed (across the front) , or two beds (one on each side.). Hope my idea works.

When these get done and painted - the next project is to face the doors, and drawers with Amber shellaced birch plywood to match the rest of the trailer.

I'll add photos when I get it done.

Plus it's December and I want to make a few Christmas gifts for friends, so I'll have to take a break for a day or two (or a week) pretty soon.

Sunday, November 25, 2018

Post #20 - Side walls & cabinetry

Despite the cold temperatures we've gotten the side walls up, attached to the floor framework, and stabilized across the top with two rafters (ribs) and have the back panel and three ribs in.  I have all the rafters cut to 84" and frames made to fit the windows and vents in the front, back and ceiling. (Note: I made a boo boo. I should have cut the rafters to 84.25") so I will have to add some 1/8" plywood squares to the ends when I am finished.

I've been working on facing the cabinets, and filling the pin nail holes with wood filler, started to paint the back of the cabinet doors, and drawers. These will be faced with the birch plywood when I'm done painting the backs. I still have a lot of finishing work to do on the cabinets, but it's getting there.

On Thanksgiving I made new cabinet frames for the 24" x12' X 12" cabinets the previous owners had removed. Still have to face the frames with the ambered birch paneling and deciding what style of door to make.

We've gotten the 1" boards cut for the new upper bunk/shelf unit, and I plan to sand them and put a coat of clear shellac on so they look nice.

One step at a time...progress depends on how cold it gets, and how much snow we get this winter.

Here are a few photos...

More to follow...

Monday, October 22, 2018

Post #19 - Paneling & wheel wells installed

I spent the last few days putting the birch paneling on the street and curb side walls, glueing, stapling and twisty nailing the paneling down to the wall frames.  I even learned how to use the router (thanks to my Hubby), and got the windows, door and other necessary holes cut.

I still have to decide what I want to use as trim over the areas where the panels meet. I'll either cut some strips, or purchase some screen door trim if I can find some in the next few days.

After I finished wall frames, I installed the wheel wells and covered them with insulation.

The wall sides are almost ready to put onto the sides of the floor frame, just need to drill a few holes for the bolts to go through.  Hopefully tomorrow or Wednesday I can get that done. Paneling the cabinetry is the next thing I plan on doing, then installing it all into the trailer.

More next time.

Friday, October 19, 2018

Post # 18 - Marmoleum flooring

After the floor leveler dried for a week while I was camping at Hailey. Idaho with some of my Sisters On the Fly friends, I could finally turn my attention to the marmoleum floor installation.

First we unrolled the flooring and laid it down on the trailer floor so it would stretch and flatten out for a few nights.
Then we cut the Marmoleum sheet to length and cut the wheel wells out, and let it lay and stretch out for another day.  

Today we went out and glued it down, first the street side, then the curb side.  After rolling repeatedly we added weight to the edges, and clamped some 1 1/2" boards to the edges, and rolled again.  Tomorrow I will roll again, cover the flooring with RAMboard, plus heavy craft paper to protect it through out the rest of the build. 

Done for today - more later.

Monday, October 8, 2018

Post # 17 - Floor to ceiling frames & priming - leveling floor.

This week was hard to get motivated to do more work on the trailer because it has been so cold outside in the mornings, but I bundled up and faced the cold.

I sanded all the remaining paneling off the fronts and sides & due to rot I had to remove and replace some of the wood in almost every cabinet in spots. Plus I added some extra support in the sides of the closets so I can hang a few things up without worrying about backing that was only 1/8" thick.  I think I figured out how the kitchen cabinet drawers were originally built - I think what I did will work fine once I get the drawers built.

I also built a framework for the converter/fuse box so I can just slide it in and attach it to the frame.

But this week I did meet my goals to have all the cabinets framework ready to put the paneling on, primed the plywood floor and got the leveling compound on to smooth it out (hubby helped a bit - that bag of stuff was heavy) in anticipation of the Marmoleum flooring.  After I take a week off waiting for the weather to warm back up again, I plan on installing the Marmoleum flooring, putting the paneling on the inside walls, & cabinets, reinstalling the wheel wells, putting up the sides and attaching the cabinets. If it all works out I'm hopeful I can start the wrap by November.  We shall see how much I actually get done.

Friday, September 21, 2018

Post #16 - Shellac and cabinet frames

Finally able to get back to work on the trailer after a summer of camping and work.

I just finished putting 4 - 5 coats of Amber Shellac, and 1-2 coats of Clear on my 16 sheets of my birch plywood.  I sanded after 3 coats with 220 grit sandpaper, applied another coat and then sanded again with 320 grit.  I put two coats of clear on most of the sheets which I will sand again and apply another clear coat after installation. I ended up with 4-5 sheets that turned out lighter than the others so they will be used on cabinetry and in hidden spaces.

After I got to this point I started rebuilding the framework of the bench seats and upper cabinets.  I rebuilt the seat front framework because I wanted it stronger that it was, and on the upper cabinets I am reusing as much of the original wood as possible - just replacing the sections with rot or rusted out nails.

That's it for now... till next time.

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Post #15 - Curbside framework

I spent a couple of days working on the curbside framework, sanding the remnants of the old paneling off of the inside, filling holes, and pulling the rest of the staples and pin nails out before hand.  I then flipped it over and filled the screw holes with match sticks and a few toothpicks, Sanded, pulled the rest of the staples, & pin nails.  I then spent a few days cutting and placing the insulation in. My plan for wiring:  melting holes through the insulation with a long metal rod, or the insulation cutter. Works great, I just feed the wire through and place the insulation back in place. You may notice a difference in  a few photos -  I forgot to flip the insulation over so the foil was inside, so I had to recut a few pieces. I made sure my vents would still fit in their spaces, and removed the silicone from around the large vent they'd put on to prevent leaks. This vent needs a new gasket around it, and new lock.   Now I'm going to be schellacing the birch plywood with Amber Shellac - using the French Polish method.

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Post # 14 - Streetside and Curbside framework

I've spent the past two weeks or so pulling staples, nails and screws out of the framework for the streetside and curbsides.  I've also removed the most rotten wood and replaced it with new, and reinforced where the wood was questionable in a few spots. My foam cutter came from Amazon so I insulated the streetside - when I can find the time I will do the same thing for the curbside framework. (Camping season has arrived).  The outside curved edges were replaced with 1/4" X 1.5" strips, glued and stapled to make it 1.5" thick (or as close to it as I could get it).  I'm glad I had lots of clamps, but still think I could have used a few more of the screw to tighten type (see the last photo). Lots of photos of the black rot in the perimeter framework.

In the background of this photo
is the interior of the streetside framework, already cleaned up, repaired, & insulated, with wires for the lights run through the insulation and framework. 

Clamping the new curbing over the curve in the front.  Did the same thing for the back end.