Wednesday, April 17, 2019

Post # 30 - Wiring, & electrical boxes

I had a general plan on where I wanted to place my overhead lights and outlet boxes before I started this part of the project, but a few things always come up that make me change something. Like finding great deals on vintage lighting...

And wiring a trailer is challenging, but doable, when you're not an electrician.  Good thing I know one or two...

I've decided to put the small light that was in the old bathroom into the ceiling of my closet, and use the square light from the living space in the bathroom.  This is because I found 3 round lights at the Highway 31 yard sale in Northern Pend Oreille County last September, that I thought would look amazing in the trailer (really inexpensive). Plus I found 2 silver cone lights for $27 bucks at a Junk Show to put at the end of the two new cabinets I had to replace.   I just cleaned up all the lamp bases and painted with Rustoleum Metallic Brass. So they will all match each other plus the cabinet hardware. 

I've gotten almost all the 12 volt light boxes and lamp bases in including the switches wired with 14 AWG wire. I have one more to go - and two lamp bases to install, the 12 volt pump, and the range hood and light. Then I will move on to the outlet boxes which will all be 120 volts. I'd originally planned on putting 3 outlet boxes up front on the shelf, but I think I will cut it back down to one that has two outlets and two USB ports for charging things.  I have another USB port I plan to use else ware in the trailer., so it should be good enough for one person or maybe two If the hubby comes along.

My refrigerator that I purchased is a 3 way - propane, 120 volt and 12 volt which will run when it is being towed.  I've gotten the 12 volt and 120 volt wires run, and the outlet wired for the 120 volt, and we still have to run the propane lines to it.  The 12 volt part was a bugger to figure out, so I consulted with Larry from Mobiltec - and he strongly suggested I have a professional wire it for 12 volt, because they have to wire the tow vehicle too.  But I went ahead a ran 8 AWG red (they didn't have white) and black wires (recommended in the manual) to the front of the trailer, so when I take it in they just have to make the connection to the car.

I ran the wires from the back of the cabinet (where the fridge will go) down to the wheel well and across the wall support for the curbside bed.  I will drill a hole at the bottom front of the trailer to run it outside and through some conduite to protect it over to the tongue.. I will do the same for the 8 AWG wire I will use to wire the converter to the battery at the front of the trailer.

 I plan on putting in some pink puffy insulation where the wiring is because the foam just won't work in those sections.  Plus I have to corral some of the wires together with some tape and or wire staples so it looks a bit neater.

Not everything will be brass - the New Humphrey propane light will remain brown, and the range and hood will stay a reddish color. The sink is a peachy kind of color - which I can live with.

More later...

Tuesday, April 9, 2019

Post #29 - Ceiling, joists and vent holes

Last week despite the rain and cool weather, we managed to get the rest of the panels shellaced and installed.  Every rafter was attached with two 3" screws and the paneling was stapled with 3/4" long, X 15/16" wide staples. Shouldn't be going anywhere.  The front cabinet was screwed into the paneling for strength along the top and middle.  Still need to put the top board on it, but have to shellac it first. I also cut out the living room vent hole and the hole for the upper refrigerator vent. Tomorrow I'll have to cut out the vent hole in the bathroom ceiling, and put pounding more twisty nails through the paneling into the rafters. 

After everything is nailed in and cut out the next item to do is running the 120 v and 12v wiring so I can add the curbing to the edges, and insulation from front to back.

Friday, March 29, 2019

Post #28 - Lower Cabinets installed

I finally got all of the little issues fixed (Level, and plumb) in regard to getting the lower cabinets to fit into their respective spots and got them installed. Plus got the kitchen and bathroom cabinets ready to install. The bathroom wall needed to be sanded down for a better fit around the curve in the back, and regimped.  Also got another panel installed over the bathroom, but I still need to affix the rafters to it and cut out the vent hole. The vents that came with trailer are about 9" instead of the more common 14" vents in other trailers. 

I plan on putting one more panel on top and one in front (these two are already shellaced). Then I have to shellac a few more sheets.  I hope to have the trailer paneled by the end of next week, if everything goes as planned.  Once that is done it's on to wiring the fridge so I can get it off the floor and out of the way, Then I will figure out where the overhead lights and outlets are going to be located and get them wired. The to do list is long........

Here are a few photos of my cabinets installed.

Tuesday, March 19, 2019

Post #27 Paneling update

I may have figured out a fix to the "Ghosting/blushing" problem I've had with my paneling that has been under the carport all winter.  HEAT Gun  - on low power, moving it back and forth, up and down seemed to magically remove the white cloudiness on the paneling.  I also put a coat of Treewax over the top to help protect it from moisture getting  back in under the shellac.  I hope it stays beautiful... we'll see.  Here are some more photos  - in progress and finished.

Monday, March 18, 2019

Post #26 - Paneling and shellac issues.

So I'm finally back at working on the trailer since the weather has warmed up to 40-50 degrees during the day and in the upper 20's and 30's at night.

An issue I've run into with my birch paneling that I put on the trailer side panels is "blushing" or "ghosting" where moisture gets under the shellac and makes it turn a milky white.  Not sure how this happened - the trailer is under cover and protected for the most part.  I'm thinking that with February's weather so frigid and snowy, the humidity in the air somehow penetrated through the shellac coatings.

I've read up on this and supposedly I should be able to go over it again with more shellac and denatured alcohol which should remove the blush.  I sure hope so.

I've tried an experiment - I recoated another sheet of plywood - french polish method, and put two coats of paste wax over the top to see if it will protect the paneling from humidity.  We still have a lot of snow to melt, and the rainy season should be here soon.  I don't really want to have to wait until May to finish this trailer just because of humidity.

With the help of my hubby, we got this sheet of plywood installed today at the rear of the trailer - most of these two panels will be behind kitchen & bathroom cabinetry, so if they cannot be fixed I'll figure out how to cover them up.

Here are a few photos - notice the white ghosting/blushing to the first photo.

The bottom inch and a half of the edge to the upper sheet of plywood had "ghosted/blushed", but I managed to wipe it away with sanding and two more light coats of clear shellac.
The bathroom wall has started to blush out, but as you can see the side of the closet still looks good, and it's been in the trailer for quite awhile,  I put on an additional two coats of shellac using the French Polish Method, with a "Rubber" (a pad of cotton batting or wool, wrapped in cotton cloth), which is loaded with shellac, denatured alcohol and a drop of mineral oil. Once dried I put on a coat of paste wax.  I did this with all of my cabinetry and the bathroom wall and it all still looks good, while the walls has a milky white look to them.   

Here is a photo of the cushions seat and seat back together...the back is split because I plan on having two different options for the bed and dining table.

Friday, January 25, 2019

Post #25 - Foam and Cushion covers

I think I've gotten all the cabinets ready to install, and all the fronts redone so they look like I want.  Now I have to wait for a bit of warmer weather so I've turned my attention to cutting the foam to length and width, and laying out and sewing the fabric for the covers.

I found 6"  high density foam at Walmart that would suit my needs, so I bought enough to make everything.   I couldn't find a 15" piece, but they did sell 30" wide pieces so I cut them down to the length I needed and split the 30" in half. Using my electric knife I'd bought years ago with the bread knife blade attachment worked really well at cutting this stuff.

I'm doing a stripe for the back of the cushions/bed and a solid brown for the cushion seats.

Here a  photo of the seat back fabric, laminate & marmoleum choices : 
And a few photos of the foam, and completed covers.  I used velcro to inclose the foam inside.

I even managed to match the stripes pretty closely.  After I finish the other sides back cushions , I will be working on the seat cushions in the solid brown.
 I think after I'm done with this project I will go out and shellac the trim pieces, so they are ready when I need them.

One step at a time, as time permits...

Thursday, January 10, 2019

Post #23 & 24 Cabinet, closet, & bathroom doors

Post #23 ~ December 18th - We removed the old facing from the two doors and I sanded them down nice and smooth. I also added some interior supports to the top and down the middle for some structural support.  Today (Wednesday Dec 19th) I glued and stapled (with 3/4" x 15/16" staples) the extra supports into the closet door and put the new facing on.  As you can see I used almost every clamp we have, plus weighted it down where the extra supports were added with bricks.

Post# 24 ~ After being forced to take two weeks or so off from the project because of a very bad cold over Christmas, I'm back at it.

I did the same thing to the bathroom door that I did to the closet door, and when done with both doors, flush cut the edges, then rounded the edges over with a 1/8" roundover bit.  I then put on two more coats of Amber shellac, and two coats of clear.

I used Larry's method of shellacing from to lay down the first layers of shellac on the 4' X 8' sheets of Birch plywood.

Then after I got everything cut out and applied to the cabinet, bathroom & closet doors, and drawers I decided to do some refined finishing techniques because of a bit of streakiness I didn't like.

After watching some youtube videos on french polishing I decided to try the new method on these items.  I really like the results as I got a smoother more mirror like finish.  Here is a link to one of the videos I watched.

Method I used: I took an old wool sock (or half a sock) and placed it in the middle of a double layered cotton cloth (I used part of a flour sack towel), & tied it off to make a pad. After sanding with 240 grit sandpaper & removing any dust, I then dipped the pad into a small amount of shellac, dripped a few drops of denatured alcohol on top, plus a drop of mineral oil for lubrication.  I rubbed the pad over the door face following the grain of the wood until it was coated with the shellac. To keep the pads from drying out, I kept them in a jar with an airtight lid.  I let the shellac dry for an hour, then rubbed 0000 steel wool over it, wiped any dust off it, then applied another coat. If I needed more layers I repeated the process.

When I liked the way it looked I applied a coat of paste wax on it to help protect it, and buffed it to a shine.

I think they came out very nice.  I think am going to do this to the walls and cabinets too, because it just looks really nice.

I do have to redo one of the cabinet door fronts, because when I flush cut around the edges the birch paneling delaminated really bad.  Luckily I had a spare piece that would fit the door. So I've removed the old and have glued the new face on.  Hopefully this piece won't have the same issue.

Largest cabinet door. 

6 of 8 cabinet doors.

Bathroom door.

Closet door.

Two upper cabinets I had to recreate, because the previous owners removed them. 
French Polish supplies. Shellac, denatured alcohol, mineral oil, 0000 steel wool, and the application pads. 

Thursday, December 13, 2018

Post # 22 - Drawer & cabinet fronts +

This week I got the new fronts of the drawers glued on and today we routed the edges with a 1/8" round over bit.  I re sanded the edges nice and smooth before using the router(after I'd painted them Fresh Guacamole, I didn't like the way they looked), and put a coat of Amber Shellac over the edges and put another coat on the front. Looks wonderful!
I also got the gaucho bed frames cut and ready to install.  the top part that pulls out to make the benches into the beds out got slats put in, & painted on both sides (to cover old wood smell).  I also cut them into two sections so I can have one 40" X 80" wide bed across the back or two 39" X 73.5" beds down the sides. I've added 3" to each side so I don't have to cut the 24" wide foam down to 20".

The front cabinet / shelf unit is also built and ready to install - this is where the table will fold down in the middle of the seat/bed units & fit snugly into the space provided.  And I have a nice white pine board to install for the top, which may have 3 outlets (2 with USB ports) installed in it. I also have to sand and put a few coats of shellac on the board.
Tomorrow I start on the cabinet doors.  I was just going to cover the original paneling with new, but we decided it wouldn't look right because of the way they had been beveled. So my husband ripped the fronts off and now I just have to sand and glue new paneling around the edge frames (hollow core doors).  Will definitely save on glue. 

Pictures will follow.  

Wednesday, December 5, 2018

Post #21 - Cabinets, Drawers, & bed frames.

Since the last post I've slowly been painting the interior of the smaller cabinets, backs and edges of the doors, plus I've painted the interior of the three drawers that were still intact (because they were somewhat nasty).  I'm painting the bed toppers, and legs too.  I hope the color I chose grows on me, because I'm not too sure I love it.

I have found that waiting for paint and glue dry is boring.  Unless I get out to the workshop and put a coat of paint on before lunch, I have to wait until the next day to put the second coat on since it wants me to wait at least 4 hours between coats.  Glue is similar - have to wait to nail or screw until it has a chance to set up.  Tedious stuff...

I also realized I don't like stapling gimp (welting) across the upper edges of all the cabinets.  Larry says we need to do this to keep the squeaking down because of wood on wood contact, but it is boring to do too.  I did the upper kitchen cabinet, over the top edges of the side walls, and part of the closet.  I think I will have to buy more to finish the job. Probably another 200' - 300', because I still have to do the lower kitchen cabinet, upper bathroom cabinet, refrigerator cabinet, wall between the bathroom and kitchen (both sides), front shelf unit, two small upper cabinets, and around the potty box I'm going to build.

This past week I've also been working on the bed frames, and making the slats to extend the seating to make the beds wider.  When done they should be able to be pulled out to 39"- 40" - 24" seat with 15" backs.  I plan on splitting the backs at 40" so I can configure the bed frame to make one bed (across the front) , or two beds (one on each side.). Hope my idea works.

When these get done and painted - the next project is to face the doors, and drawers with Amber shellaced birch plywood to match the rest of the trailer.

I'll add photos when I get it done.

Plus it's December and I want to make a few Christmas gifts for friends, so I'll have to take a break for a day or two (or a week) pretty soon.

Sunday, November 25, 2018

Post #20 - Side walls & cabinetry

Despite the cold temperatures we've gotten the side walls up, attached to the floor framework, and stabilized across the top with two rafters (ribs) and have the back panel and three ribs in.  I have all the rafters cut to 84" and frames made to fit the windows and vents in the front, back and ceiling. (Note: I made a boo boo. I should have cut the rafters to 84.25") so I will have to add some 1/8" plywood squares to the ends when I am finished.

I've been working on facing the cabinets, and filling the pin nail holes with wood filler, started to paint the back of the cabinet doors, and drawers. These will be faced with the birch plywood when I'm done painting the backs. I still have a lot of finishing work to do on the cabinets, but it's getting there.

On Thanksgiving I made new cabinet frames for the 24" x12' X 12" cabinets the previous owners had removed. Still have to face the frames with the ambered birch paneling and deciding what style of door to make.

We've gotten the 1" boards cut for the new upper bunk/shelf unit, and I plan to sand them and put a coat of clear shellac on so they look nice.

One step at a time...progress depends on how cold it gets, and how much snow we get this winter.

Here are a few photos...

More to follow...