Post # 30 - Wiring, & electrical boxes

I had a general plan on where I wanted to place my overhead lights and outlet boxes before I started this part of the project, but a few things always come up that make me change something. Like finding great deals on vintage lighting...

And wiring a trailer is challenging, but doable, when you're not an electrician.  Good thing I know one or two...

I've decided to put the small light that was in the old bathroom into the ceiling of my closet, and use the square light from the living space in the bathroom.  This is because I found 3 round lights at the Highway 31 yard sale in Northern Pend Oreille County last September, that I thought would look amazing in the trailer (really inexpensive). Plus I found 2 silver cone lights for $27 bucks at a Junk Show to put at the end of the two new cabinets I had to replace.   I just cleaned up all the lamp bases and painted with Rustoleum Metallic Brass. So they will all match each other plus the cabinet hardware.

I've gotten almost all the 12 volt light boxes and lamp bases in including the switches wired with 14 AWG wire. I have one more to go - and two lamp bases to install, the 12 volt pump, and the range hood and light. Then I will move on to the outlet boxes which will all be 120 volts. I'd originally planned on putting 3 outlet boxes up front on the shelf, but I think I will cut it back down to one that has two outlets and two USB ports for charging things.  I have another USB port I plan to use else ware in the trailer., so it should be good enough for one person or maybe two If the hubby comes along.

My refrigerator that I purchased is a 3 way - propane, 120 volt and 12 volt which will run when it is being towed.  I've gotten the 12 volt and 120 volt wires run, and the outlet wired for the 120 volt, and we still have to run the propane lines to it.  The 12 volt part was a bugger to figure out, so I consulted with Larry from Mobiltec - cannedhamtrailers.com and he strongly suggested I have a professional wire it for 12 volt, because they have to wire the tow vehicle too.  But I went ahead a ran 10 AWG red (they didn't have white) and black wires (recommended by the tech I talked to) to the front of the trailer, so when I take it in to a technician, they just have to make the connection to the car.

I ran the wires from the back of the cabinet (where the fridge will go) down to the wheel well and across the wall support for the curbside bed.  I will drill a hole at the bottom front of the trailer to run it outside and through some conduite to protect it over to the tongue.. I will do the same for the 8 AWG wire I will use to wire the converter to the battery at the front of the trailer.

 I plan on putting in some pink puffy insulation where the wiring is because the foam just won't work in those sections.  Plus I have to corral some of the wires together with some tape and or wire staples so it looks a bit neater.

Not everything will be brass - the New Humphrey propane light will remain brown, and the range and hood will stay a reddish color. The sink is a peachy kind of color - which I can live with.

More later...

Post #29 - Ceiling, joists and vent holes

Last week despite the rain and cool weather, we managed to get the rest of the panels shellaced and installed.  Every rafter was attached with two 3" screws and the paneling was stapled with 3/4" long, X 15/16" wide staples. Shouldn't be going anywhere.  The front cabinet was screwed into the paneling for strength along the top and middle.  Still need to put the top board on it, but have to shellac it first. I also cut out the living room vent hole and the hole for the upper refrigerator vent. Tomorrow I'll have to cut out the vent hole in the bathroom ceiling, and put pounding more twisty nails through the paneling into the rafters. 

After everything is nailed in and cut out the next item to do is running the 120 v and 12v wiring so I can add the curbing to the edges, and insulation from front to back.